It was only 6:45am — already we’d been greeted by a moose along the river and a grizzly with her two cubs in the brush. Not much later, we stopped to view a herd of bison on our right and spotted a grizzly bear nursing her cubs on a distant ridge. The morning did not disappoint.

This grizzly bear sow and her two cubs were near the road on our way into the park. Because they were relatively close, we viewed them from inside of our vans.

This moose was feeding near Soda Butte Creek not far from our lodge in Silver Gate, MT.

The call of nature caused us to pause for a pit stop, which yielded the sound of coyotes yipping in the distance near Soda Butte. Then, we hiked up a mountainside with Ranger Michael in search of pika. We made observations and collected data for a citizen science project called Pikas in Peril.

Learning from Ranger Michael.

We drove to Mammoth Hot Springs. Melissa led us on a two-mile hike up a scenic and steep trail that we had all to ourselves. At the top of the trail, overlooking Park Headquarters and the travertine terraces, we had storytime in the blustery wind with Greg. Ask us about thistle, please, and we’ll tell you more! Then, we joined the throngs of visitors for the more typical experience of the Mammoth Terraces from the boardwalk.

Kim measures the temperatures of a hot spring next to the Howard Eaton Trail near Mammoth.

Here we are at Mammoth Hot Springs.

Our next stop —a highlight for many — was a Great Horned Owl nest for owlet viewing. The day was full of amazement and wonder and worth the wait. These words by John Muir sum up our experience:

Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.”

Submitted with gratitude, today’s bloggers, Andrew, Rachel & Talicia

It took 4 years, but, as they say, fourth time’s the charm. The 2020 Yellowstone Educators of Excellence trip has arrived on June 14, 2023. We met at RDU at 4 AM and had seamless travel to Bozeman, MT. We got lunch, grabbed supplies, and made our way to the Roosevelt Arch for our first team meeting, where we set goals for the trip and bonded over who we’d each choose as our celebrity best friend. Then we began the drive across Yellowstone from Gardiner to Silver Gate, rushing to make it through the “blast zone” for road reconstruction before an evening road closure, work that’s being done to repair damage from last year’s trip-cancelling flood. We enjoyed a burrito picnic in Lamar Valley and started looking for wildlife in earnest. Today alone we saw a pronghorn with twin babies, mule deer, bison, elk, a bald eagle, an osprey, a western tanager, a badger, a black bear with cub, and a grizzly with two cubs. We were pleasantly surprised by the flora, including cacti, sagebrush, lodgepole pine, aspen trees, and many wildflowers. It feels surreal to finally be here after so many obstacles along the way!

By trip leader Melissa Dowland

Right now, twelve educators across North Carolina are wrapping up the school year, submitting grades, packing up their classrooms… and packing zip-off pants, puffy coats, hiking boots, and even hats and gloves for the adventure of a lifetime — the Educators of Excellence Institute to Yellowstone. We’ll meet at RDU at 4 am on Wednesday, June 14 for ten days exploring the ecology and geology of our first national park, learning from experts, and getting ideas and information to bring back to students in North Carolina.

The Yellowstone Team: Andy, Becqui, Dana, Kimberly, Rachel, Talicia, Eryn, Darryl, Jessie, Scott, Lindsey, and Sharon. Find out more about them on the Meet the Team page!

This incredibly patient group has been waiting more than three years for this opportunity! When they applied to join the Museum’s Yellowstone Institute in winter of 2019–20, little did they know how long it would be before they had the chance to make the trip. As with so many things, our Yellowstone Institute was canceled in 2020 at the height of the pandemic. In 2021, we again put the trip off out of an abundance of caution. 2022 was going to be our year, or so we thought. But on June 13, 2022, just 24 hours before we were set to head to the airport, devastating floods hit the park, washing out roads and closing Yellowstone entirely. Needless to say, we didn’t head into the maelstrom of chaos that descended in the days following the flood. Thankfully, with a lot of hard work, roads have been repaired and Yellowstone is back to welcoming millions of visitors.

Our Yellowstone team is really hoping 2023 is our year! I say “hoping” because we’re not there quite yet, and you better believe I’m knocking on just about every wooden surface in my house as I write this!

Here are a few snippets of the ways folks have been preparing for the trip…

From Becqui Masters:

I’m lying wide awake in bed trying to think of what to write for this blog. The closer the calendar gets to our group of teachers meeting at RDU, the more nervouscited I become. I anticipate our journey to Yellowstone to be a successful 4th attempt. The three year delay has sometimes made me think that we weren’t meant to go. But patience, perseverance and planning by our leaders have hopefully paid off. I’m so elated to be done with school, and we now have 2 months to refresh, renew, and regenerate. What better way than to participate in an educational trek through our country’s first national park! I know that we each have our own reasons for wanting to go on this trip: fifteen different personalities, fifteen different stories to tell, fifteen individuals who will each bring something unique to the table. Friendships and bonds are certain to form. Memories are meant to be made. This morning I finished packing, something that took me weeks to finalize. I took over the empty bedroom belonging to my daughter, who’s away at college. Her bed and floor were covered with all the belongings I overpacked, plus one antsy border collie, who instinctively suspected someone was leaving. I haven’t picked my quote to share with the group yet (one of our homework assignments). I still have the items I prepared for my expert topic last year, but I have to refresh my memory on the actual lesson (our other homework assignment). I’m super excited to see wild bison and elk. But what I’m most looking forward to are the hot springs and geysers. So many mixed feelings about this trip, but I know the rewards will be worth it.

The scene from Becqui’s guest room before fitting everything in a suitcase.

From Sharon Harbaugh:

Just over a year ago, I heard that I was called up from the waiting list for a trip to YELLOWSTONE. Lots of rushing, packing, rescheduling, and figuring out what to do with my classes ensued. And then, the drive to Raleigh. But on the way, BAD NEWS from Melissa — flooding in Yellowstone might affect our trip. And then REALLY BAD NEWS — catastrophic flooding and park closure and the trip was postponed… until the next year. But I continued on my way to Chapel Hill where I was planning on spending the night with my mom before the trip. In typical mom fashion she said, “ That’s such a disappointment. But now you get to look forward to the trip for a whole year.” And so I did …. look forward to the trip for a whole year. And now it’s almost here. I think that I’m ready, despite having spent only two weekends at home in the last three months. I have been getting ready for Yellowstone — reading about wolves, reviewing information on my expert topic: the Yellowstone cutthroat trout, looking at the map, taking each of my five classes to Singletary Lake for 3–4 days apiece, hiking in Massachusetts with a former roommate, enjoying trails in NC and backpacking on the Appalachian Trail with my daughter. My bag is packed. I’m pretty sure that I have forgotten something important even though I have gone over and over the packing list because this year it all fit in a smaller bag than last year. I did not forget my underwear even though it wasn’t on the packing list (thank you, Becqui), but something must be missing. It’s not the excitement or enthusiasm that’s missing. Hopefully, the only thing missing is the new teacher friends and amazing Museum staff — and hopefully they are all packing themselves.

Sharon and her daughter, Katy, have been section hiking the Appalachian Trail since she was 16. This trip was from Tennessee into Damascus, VA, one of the sections they hadn’t yet hiked.

From Talicia Smith:

The view of mountains, bison and bears became a fixed image as I climbed stair after stair on the gym’s stair climber in preparation for my upcoming Yellowstone trip. At work my coworkers were a little concerned as I was all too eager to climb the stairs carrying armfuls of Chromebook computers to our media center after the elevator broke. Anticipation built as I completed each end-of-the-year task. What presented itself as an ending — this school year — also gave birth to a new adventure: Yellowstone. I chuckled to myself as my trainer at the gym asked me to do “bear holds.” Although cute in name, the all-fours position, which is held for what seems like eternity, was not cute, but required strength and endurance, much like the school year that just ended. Nevertheless, the strain of the hold was worth the adventure I would begin. Yellowstone, here I come.

Now we know who’s going to be the fastest hiker on the trip!

Cross your fingers for us that everything goes smoothly in these last couple days leading up to the trip. Then, when we (hopefully!) make it to Yellowstone, follow our adventure and send us questions and comments through this blog!

Due to unprecedented flooding along the Yellowstone River and its tributaries, Yellowstone National Park is closed to all visitors for at least the next two days. Our Institute group was set to fly out tomorrow morning. Thankfully, we were able to cancel the trip and are home safe and sound during an incredibly challenging time for Yellowstone and the surrounding communities. Our thoughts are with our many friends in the Yellowstone area as rivers crest and cleanup begins.

June 24, 2019

Today is the day that we fly back to North Carolina, and it was an 8 o’clock wake up call. After our full stomachs and sleepy eyes last night, waking up a little later felt good. We ate breakfast and headed to the airport. It was quieter this morning in the vans, many of us in disbelief of how fast this trip went by. Early mornings were difficult when we started, but as we continued on our journey, they allowed us to make so many more memories.

Walking the Upper Geyser Basin boardwalk in the early morning

These memories include the natural wonders of Yellowstone, but also the fast friendships formed over the miles and adventures. There were so many passionate teachers who brought unique gifts on the trip. There was always someone ready to lend a hand. Even as we loaded our bags to head home, many opened their bags for others whose bags were now overweight with souvenirs.

Mandie, Kristen, and Michele take a selfie

As we enter back into our own worlds, we are so thankful that these quotes ring true:

“Friends are the people who make you smile brighter, laugh louder, and live better.” – unknown

“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into the trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.”

⁃ John Muir

Flowers bloom in front of the Grand Tetons

Inspired, rejuvenated and amazed. These are three of the countless words that accurately describe our adventure into the mesmerizing Yellowstone National Park. As we sit in the airport and wait to board our flight, we all sit in awe of the “firsts” we have each experienced this week. With three amazing leaders, lots of coffee, and the desire to take in every second of every day, we all come back better, more enriched individuals and educators. It’s going to be great to see our families and hold them tight, but being able to relive and share the experiences of Yellowstone with them and others is going to be a bright spot within us for the rest of our lives. For that, we are forever thankful.

With lots of love we sign off for the last time,

Emily, Mandie, and Kristen

The 2019 Educators of Excellence Yellowstone Institute participants

June 23, 2019

Today was a mixture of excitement and sadness as we headed into our last real day in Yellowstone. We started off the morning with a walk through Upper Geyser Basin, just outside the Old Faithful Inn. We were dazzled by the array of different hot spring formations—pools of bubbling blue water, billows of fluffy white steam, rings of red thermophiles, and fountains of water spewing from deep within the earth. A few of our favorite features included the Beehive Geyser (with a cone shaped like—you guessed it—a beehive), Spasmodic Geyser (with water spewing every which way), and the Grand Geyser. The Grand Geyser was particularly spectacular—it erupted high into the sky, up to 180 ft. Water gushed into the sky for about 8 minutes, and just when we thought it was over, it erupted a second time with an even higher column of super-heated water. Afterwards, Ranger Rebecca led us on a tour through Upper Geyser Basin. She explained the various mechanisms of how geysers work, pointed out the bobby sock trees (long dead after absorbing silica), and shared her urgency / passion for environmental conservation.

Ranger Rebecca shares her deep knowledge of the thermal features of the Upper Geyser Basin

From there, we started our long trek back to Bozeman, which included several stops along the way. First, we stopped at Black Sand Pool, locally known as “Thumper.” Megan told us to lay down in the dirt around the pool. Although it sounded like a strange request, we complied and laid in a ring around the bubbling pool. We waited…and waited. At first, nothing. And then, without warning, a thump came from deep within the earth. It felt like a giant was trapped beneath the surface and was knocking to escape. We could feel the thud against our backs and hear the hollow sound reverberate against the rock. Megan explained that these thumps were caused by explosions of super-heated water underground. So cool!!

Lying on the ground, experiencing the thumping of Black Sand Pool

We also stopped at the Fountain Paint Pots. There were several geothermal formations there as well, including geysers, steam vents, and mud pots. The mud pots were an unusual sight—a cesspool of bubbling mud swirled with pinks and yellows. Bacteria and acid play a key role in these formations. Bacteria in the ground produces sulfuric acid, which in turn breaks down the surrounding rocks, producing a mud pool. It was interesting to compare the mud pots to the geysers we saw earlier in the day.

Besides sight-seeing, we also had some final group-bonding moments. A few days ago, we decorated our vans. Amidst all of our excursions across Yellowstone, both of our white vans have accumulated a thick layer of mud and dust. Of course we could have figured out a way to wash it off, but instead we decided to write a tally of all the wildlife we’d seen. Our vans were a hit with the tourists! We caught several groups today pointing at our vans and taking pictures, gawking at the collection of wildlife we’d seen.

Our wildlife talley on one of the vans

At lunch, we played a competitive (and hilarious) Yellowstone-themed game of charades. We rolled with laughter as various teammates acted out “badger hunting uinta,” “pika,” “Grand Prismatic,” “Megan,” and “rock snot.” We ended the day with our final team meeting, where we shared out highlights and appreciations from the trip. Needless to say, we ended the day with heavy hearts that our adventure is coming to a close. However, at the same time, we could not say enough to express the joy, appreciation, and inspiration we’ve experienced on this trip. It has been truly remarkable and awe-inspiring—a trip we will never forget!!

Johnny performing during charades

June 22, 2019

Another early morning in Yellowstone- we departed Old Faithful Inn at 5:00 am and headed into adjacent Grand Teton National Park. The two hour van ride was quiet as most of us slept in the early hours of the morning. Once we reached the majestic peaks of the Tetons, we were all rejuvenated with sights of jagged snow-topped mountain peaks cutting into the bluebird skies. After a quick breakfast surrounded by jaw-dropping views, we visited the Laurance Rockefeller Preserve near Phelps Lake. We used our time at the preserve to take in the sights and sounds and reflect on our surroundings.

Early morning yoga at the entrance to the Laurance S. Rockefellar Preserve

After some impromptu yoga at the trailhead we visited the Laurance S. Rockefeller Visitor Center to get our bearings and plan our hikes for the day. The center has a soundscape room which many of us used to sit quietly and contemplate our connection to the natural world.

Once we were limbered up, we set off on a 3 mile hike to and from Phelps Lake. Along the way we observed and identified numerous birds and wildflowers including silver lupine, arnica, sticky geranium, and fairy slipper.

The group at Phelps Lake

Later, we stopped at a pond near Murie Ranch to enjoy a picnic lunch, where we were entertained by a raw example of predation: an osprey stalking a duckling. While we never saw him catch his lunch, we did get to see a great blue heron and it joined our growing list of birds seen thus far.

After lunch, we went on a four mile loop hike to Taggart Lake. We were treated to magnificent views of all three Tetons and Disappointment Peak, named because explorers thought they were on Teton but were disappointed to find they were not. We were all happy that the sun was shining and the temperature was much warmer. We have experienced two seasons in one week!

We stopped at Leek Marina for pizza dinner and then, exhausted, headed back to Old Faithful Inn, forever on the lookout for the last wildlife spotting of the day. After a quick rainstorm, a remarkably vivid rainbow was cast across the sky as we departed from the Tetons. The perfect end to the perfect day.

June 21, 2019

Greetings from Wyoming, where it’s the first day of summer and there’s snow on the ground. That means the first job of the day is scraping off windshields.

A snowy morning in the Lake cabins

After a nice warm breakfast we set off in search of white pelicans along the trail of Pelican Creek. Unfortunately the trail was closed due to road construction, but we did spot a pair sitting on the edge of the water as we drove past the creek. Good eyes to those who spotted white birds along a snowy bank!! But we were able to make a quick stop at the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center where we observed replicas of the pelicans along with other birds and waterfowl living in the park. We were given a wonderful quick lesson on white pelicans, including how their wing span is 9 feet and how their populations and nesting success have decreased over the past twenty years, coinciding with the decline in cutthroat trout (pictured in an earlier post) numbers that have been caused by the invasive lake trout. We also took the time to hear about river otters, black bears, and the top dog…… THE grizzly. Thank you to Michele, Kristen, and Angie for doing a great job with their expert topics.

It was time to move on, so we loaded up the vans and headed towards the West Thumb Geyser Basin. It is easy to locate where West Thumb is on Yellowstone Lake: just look for what you may think is a fire! The steam was intense coming off the lake. West thumb gave us many stories and data to take back to NC. Ranger Nick Robertson talked briefly about the life of a seasonal ranger at Yellowstone. Mandie kept fascinating us by using the infrared thermometer gun to take temperatures of the hot springs. They ranged from 53 to 168 degrees! The biggest surprise was that only a few feet away the lake temperature dropped to a chilly 35 degrees. West Thumb was a beautiful example of the diverse geological landscape this wild country offers.

Mandie uses the thermometer to measure the temperature of a hot spring in the West Thumb area

We continued moving higher in elevation as we headed to Isa Lake to look for tiger salamanders. We were able to spot 6 of them and some leeches, but the wildest of animals seen at the lake was Megan running around the lake, eventually dashing into knee deep water to try to capture one. The wind, cold temperatures, and falling snow couldn’t stop Megan from taking off her shoes and socks, rolling up her thermals, and slipping on her Crocs. We were greatly appreciative of the entertainment.

Megan searches for tiger salamanders in Isa Lake on the continental divide

As Megan was drying out, Kali took the opportunity to present her expert topic on the reptiles and amphibians of Yellowstone. We learned that North Carolina and Yellowstone have vast differences in this area. Kali shared that there are only 6 varieties of reptiles and the prairie rattlesnake is the only venomous snake in the park. In Yellowstone, it’s the mammals that rule!

The last bit of our day saw us arriving at the STUNNING Old Faithful Inn. We quickly unloaded our gear and headed out to see the Grand Prismatic hot spring. We were not disappointed with the beautiful colors seen from the overlook. It made for an even grander experience when the thunder snow rolled in. But the final touch of the evening was watching and listening to Old Faithful erupt after dinner. If you didn’t know any better you’d think “it was as big as a geyser” (a quote made by a small child standing near us).

View from the overlook trail at Grand Prismatic hot spring

Moving to a new section of the park has been nothing short of “majestic”!

Till next time… Sapsucker team signing off

Happy Summer!

Casey, Kali, Michele

Old Faithful erupts in the late afternoon light

June 20, 2019

We’ve become accustomed to early mornings but today was special: we were allowed to decide between sleeping in or wildlife watching at 5 o’clock. While many of us gained some well deserved sleep, a few elected to end our northern Yellowstone adventure with a wildlife watch. Kali, Emily, Angie, Casey, Caroline and our fearless leaders, Christy, Chris and Megan, set off on the final watching excursion.

It was cold, far colder than it had been in the days before. The wind whipped and our fingers felt like ice. We were off before the sunrise and we stopped to see the grizzly mom and cubs. They were in the meadow where we left them the night before, snuggled in the sagebrush. One of the cubs tried many times to get up but, much like us, mom patted her baby and snuggled until he went back to sleep. We noted a few wandering black bears as we drove along, but what we were really after was a glimpse of the apex predators within the park. We traveled further into the valley and pulled off on the road to see the sunrise. We had our field breakfast and watched. Pronghorn. Bison. No grizzly, no wolves, no luck. We decided to move to the next pull-off in hopes of making our last day in Lamar Valley extra special. As we rounded the corner, cars were lined up on the side of the road. This was a good sign.

We ended our morning watching two grizzlies and four wolves in all their glory. We witnessed the full power of a grizzly sprinting downhill. Toward what, we’re not sure but we definitely wouldn’t want to be on the end of that charge. We saw the Junction Butte wolf pack devouring an early morning meal and interacting with each other. Despite the amazing views, we reluctantly left the valley and returned to load our bags and crew. The full group headed south.

We traveled through the park up and down winding mountain roads, and pulled off to see the valley we left behind. While viewing a great horned owl’s nest, a curious and determined coyote came into view. He hadn’t shed all of this winter’s coat and he was colored a very fluffy, dirty blonde. He quickly drew the attention of many park patrons and we all watched him slink near the road. He quickly crossed, ears up, then down, bouncing up to a rotting log. That’s when we saw it: he had been hunting his next meal, a Uinta ground squirrel. The hunt was short and effective, and witnessing this was nothing short of amazing. We continued on.

A young coyote eats a morning snack of a Uinta ground squirrel

Next, we ventured to the edge of the caldera of Yellowstone and observed the aftermath of a volcanic eruption that occurred approximately 640,000 years ago. We started off on a trail covered in snow with the wind whistling past our frigid cheeks. Looking out at the caldera, we took part in a group activity creating a timeline of sedimentary, igneous and metamorphic rocks and the 3 caldera-forming volcanic eruptions, and learned several facts about Yellowstone’s geology. It’s indescribable to be looking out into millions of years of history. It’s even more amazing to experience it with like-minded educators who desire to take in this adventure and go back and relive this experience with their students. Adventure, stepping out of comfort zones, and newly formed friendships – what better real-world lessons could we bring into our classrooms to begin inspiring our future leaders?

We caught glimpses of the beauty of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, but nothing prepared us for Artist’s Point. Casey did a great presentation on Thomas Moran, a painter who traveled with a geological survey in 1871. His work was very influential in convincing the federal government for the need for a national park and advocating for resources to protect this beautiful land. Spellbound, we took some time to channel Moran’s spirit and sketched the spectacular turquoise waterfall that helped to carve out the canyon. Inspired by the scenery, Angie wrote, “The sun casts iridescent sparkles upon the falls of Yellowstone. The power and majesty of the sheer image and beauty of the falls brings tears to the soul.”

Katie and Caroline channel their inner Thomas Moran at Artist point

Reflections from Artist Point

As we drove on from the falls, we entered our first area of active thermal activity. The Mud Volcano was just what we imagined… and more. The smell greeted us first: imagine sulfur steam wafting out of the bubbling ground. It looked to be boiling, but the team tasked with testing measurements recorded temperatures at only 73 degrees. The bubbles were hydrogen sulfide gas making its way through the muddy water. Dragon’s Mouth, a cave with steam billowing from the opening, and the sound of crashing waves in its pool, measured 128 degrees. We thought about what we might have thought of this area had we been the early explorers. As we were admiring the mud volcano, graupel (a type of snow that forms when water freezes very quickly) started to fall! What a strange way to end our day, at features so hot with weather so cool!

We continued to Lake Hotel and cabins and to our surprise we entered a lodge in a winter wonderland. The wind blowing off the lake was white with snow and we huddled around the fire after dinner for a meeting recapping our adventures. We are eager to continue our journey and see the iconic Old Faithful tomorrow.

Always,

Mandie, Kristen, and Emily