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Yellowstone in Winter

“Our Children are Our Future”

We entered Yellowstone again in complete darkness and experienced the night sky. The number of stars far exceeds what most of us experience in North Carolina. From there we entered Lamar Valley just in time to view the sun coming up over the Absaroka mountains. It was the most spectacular view.

Lamar Valley at sunrise

As we continued into the park, we spotted a bison carcass being scavenged by a juvenile bald eagle and approximately 25 ravens. Maybe 50 yards east were 2 bedded wolves, lying in the snow across the valley. We wondered if maybe they had fed on the carcass which would explain their satisfied, docile behavior.

Afterwards we continued on to Silver Gate, MT to the home of Dan and Cindy Hartman but before we arrived we were blessed to find 2 moose, a cow and a calf, having a morning meal of willow plants. Dan and Cindy, who are wildlife photographers and naturalists, shared with our group some of their recent work creating movies about nature. Our feature film today was called “Harvest,” which was his new film on the impact of the loss of whitebark pine trees on a multitude of animals. This film was based on his study of middens, which is a cache of pine nuts made by red squirrels. After the video we talked about the invasive species, pine bark beetle which is killing off many of these tress and affecting the ecosystem. He shared with us that his mission is to encourage others to respect and appreciate nature through a deeper connection with all living things. One of our team asked Dan what we could do to help protect whitebark pine. His response: “It’s going to be up to our children to save them.” As we were leaving the Hartmans we were thrilled to see a beautiful fuzzy pine marten, a member of the weasel family, scampering up a snag outside his cabin. In addition, we saw numerous birds including some Clark’s nutcrackers, Steller’s jays, mountain chickadees, pine grosbeaks and a red-breasted nuthatch.

Pine marten at Dan and Cindy Hartman’s house. Photo by Adam Smith.

The other animals we spotted today include: lots of bison, more dippers, ducks, pronghorns, eagles, elk, ravens, a ferruginous hawk and two red foxes. We ended our day by exiting the park during daylight hours so that we could see the Roosevelt Arch.

Group at Roosevelt Arch

Even though it was a mere 3 degrees, we rewarded ourselves by taking a relaxing dip in the Yellowstone Hot Springs, a private spot outside of the national park where hot groundwater is used in manmade pools to create a lovely spot. This was much needed after the frigid week we’ve had. Our bodies should be ready for more park action tomorrow after soaking in the mineral rich geothermal waters which will help with our aches and pains from the physical activity we have endured.

Yellowstone in Winter

“How to Survive at -27 F: Hand Warmers, Keep Moving, Surprise Hot Chocolate”

Our day began with a sunrise hike to Old Faithful and Upper Geyser Basin. It was an absolutely beautiful morning with pre-dawn light tinting the sky blue and pink. We were graced with an eruption of Old Faithful at 7:47 am against that spectacular background.

Old Faithful eruption just before dawn

As we walked across the Firehole River to Geyser Hill, we measured a temperature of -27°F. We made short stops to look at geysers and hot springs, but kept ourselves moving so we wouldn’t get too cold. As we walked past Lion Geyser, we were surprised as it started to erupt! We turned around, and in the opposite direction, we watched as the sun peaked out of the far ridgeline between lodgepole pine trees. In temperatures this cold, whenever we walked through steam from a thermal feature, the moisture in the air froze to our hair and clothing, and even our eyelashes.

Angie’s hood provided the perfect site for rime ice to form!

Shortly after departing from Old Faithful in our snowcoach, we stopped to hike to Black Sands Pool through about a foot of snow. Near the rim of the spring, where heat from the hot water below had melted any snow away, we laid down on the obsidian gravel covered ground. We were able to feel thumps in the ground below us caused by small steam explosions underground.

Our next stop was Midway Geyser Basin, where the huge amounts of steam produced by Excelsior Geyser coated the trees in rime ice. The lodgepole pines looked like the trees in Whoville! We took another weather measurement and the temperature was 2.1 degrees Fahrenheit while the wind chill was -17.5 degrees Fahrenheit, quite balmy after our frigid morning!

Ice-covered trees at Midway Geyser Basin

As we traveled north towards Mammoth, we got to stop at a warming hut where they served hot chocolate and snacks. We even got to use the bathroom in a heated building (every other bathroom up until this point had been in a pit toilet which had no heat or light).

Styling and profiling while waiting in line for the pit toilet

The brief moments of warmth and luxury still paled in comparison to the splendor we experienced among Yellowstone’s most famous geothermal features. Tomorrow, we head to the Lamar Valley again to look for more of Yellowstone’s other most famous features, the wildlife.

Yellowstone in Winter

“‘oh, what fun it is to ride in a Yellowstone snowcoach today, hey!’”

Friday proved to be more thrilling than we could have imagined! We started our day at Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. We loaded up in a snowcoach & headed out for a day full of learning & adventure! 

Group with our snowcoach at Nymph Lake

We were caught up in a bison parade as we followed a herd down the road, but not close enough to alter their behavior. We visited multiple overlooks on the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, including the famous Artist Point, where Adam taught us about Thomas Moran, an artist who visited Yellowstone before the park was established and whose paintings helped persuade Congress to create our first national park. At another overlook, Kelly helped the group spot an otter. We watched as it climbed the steep slopes near the Lower Falls, went into the trees, and after a surprisingly short time, appeared again on the ice near the top of the 308 foot tall waterfall!

Group at the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River

Amazingly, on our ride through Hayden Valley we spotted a very tightly gathered group of bison. Our driver, John, suggested that they might be gathered like that in response to a predator. Sure enough, we spotted a wolf a few minutes later, just to the side of the herd of bison. We set up our spotting scope in the door of the snowcoach and watched as first one, then two, then as many as 13 wolves came into view! For the most part, the bison seemed unfazed, but as a wolf approached too close, a large bison raised its tail and ran at the wolves, chasing them back. There were a few other similar interactions before we lost sight of the wolf pack behind a small hill and moved on. We were thrilled to have had the chance to watch such an amazing interaction!

Wolf watching from the snowcoach – in the back you can see Tracy peering through the scope set up in the doorway

As we continued our journey along the Yellowstone river, we stopped to view trumpeter swans and other waterfowl at Fishing Bridge, near where the Yellowstone River flows out of Yellowstone Lake. Before we could even get out of the snowcoach, we spotted a coyote doing face-plants on the other side of the road. After a number of unsuccessful attempts at catching prey, we got to see it munch on a small, gray-colored subnivean creature (small animals that live under the snow in the winter, and also Sallie’s expert topic). We think it was likely a vole.

Coyote chomping on what we think was a vole. Photo by Adam Smith.

Our group has learned and experienced so much together already. Johlynn summed up our day with a beautiful quote by Maya Angelou: “My mission in life is not merely to survive, but to thrive; and to do so with some passion, some humor, and some style.”

We ended our day at Old Faithful Snow Lodge. Our group enjoyed group quality time over dinner. We turned in early to prepare for our next full, very cold day; tonight’s low temperature at Old Faithful is predicted to be -34°F with a wind chill of -45°F… We hope we survive our dawn walk around the geyser basin tomorrow!

Yellowstone in Winter

“Stop! Look! Listen!”

We headed out before dawn on our first trip into Yellowstone. We were giddy as we sighted the Roosevelt Arch at Yellowstone’s North Entrance, where Roosevelt gave a dedication speech in 1903 and laid the cornerstone for the arch.

Kira Cassidy, a biologist with the Yellowstone Wolf Project, kicked off our first full day of exploration. She possesses a wealth of information from her twelve years studying and documenting the wolves of Yellowstone. Kira told a story about one of her favorite wolf experiences. A wolf nervously moved at the top of a snowy ridge. With one misstep and a howl, the wolf set off an avalanche; fortunately, that wolf, as well as the opposing pack at the bottom of the ridge, all escaped unscathed.

Kira spotted our first wolf at the top of Specimen Ridge, near the west end of Little America. We each took turns excitedly viewing this majestic canid. Imagine our surprise when, all of a sudden, a vehicle pulled up and out jumped Rick McIntyre! We were admittedly all quite starstruck due to him being featured in our required reading about the history of wolves in the park. Amid snapping selfies with Rick, we eagerly listened to his knowledgeable insights into the various packs of wolves and their lineages. He became such an aficionado through his over thirty years of observations of the Yellowstone wolves.

The group with Rick McIntyre (in blue jeans) and Kira Cassidy (far right in blue).

The group with Rick McIntyre (in blue jeans) and Kira Cassidy (far right in blue).

It wasn’t long after that we noticed four coyotes interacting with three wolves on the north side of the road in Little America. One wolf was a yearling female (less than a year old) and the other two were born in the spring of 2022. They were from the Junction Butte Pack.

Black colored wolf on the left being chased by three coyotes on the right. Photo by Adam Smith.

Black colored wolf on the left being chased by three coyotes on the right. Photo by Adam Smith.

Later in our journey we headed towards Barronette Peak where we spotted a beautiful red fox right on the road. She gave us a show as she posed on a seasonal stream. It flows during times of high snow melt in the spring. This third canid led us to the achievement of a three dog day, meaning we had observed a fox, coyote, and a wolf all in one day!

Red fox on left, two wolves (one gray and one black), and coyote howling on right. Photos by Adam Smith

Today was epic, but we are even more excited about what tomorrow holds: we will pile into a snowcoach and travel throughout the interior of the park down to Old Faithful.

Yellowstone in Winter

“Early Birds Get to Yellowstone”

Everybody made it to Raleigh despite the extreme weather that affected our state yesterday. Some folks had such a long trip yesterday that they stayed in a hotel last night, and they had to deal with power outages. Our travels began extremely early today, and most of the folks on our team got up at 2:30am to be at the airport at 4am. Surprisingly, even with the weather, neither of our flights was affected. One of our team members, Adam, celebrated a major life event this morning, as it was his first flight!

Adam gets his wings on his first flight.

Our team is really meshing well, and we have already started to bond. Our teachers are enjoying surrendering control to our museum leaders and getting the opportunity to be in the role of students.

On the drive to Yellowstone from the airport in Bozeman we saw magpies, elk, bald eagles, bison and mule deer. We observed the angles, layers and textures of the rock formations, which we used to deduce the geologic history of the area.

We arrived at our hostel, nestled beside the Yellowstone River. We got settled in our rooms, had a refreshing team meeting and enjoyed a yummy supper. Everyone is exhausted and happy, so we are going to bed early. Tomorrow starts with breakfast at 5:30am and a 6am departure for Yellowstone National Park!

Yellowstone in Winter

“Yellowstone, here we come!”

Early Wednesday morning, nine outstanding North Carolina educators will meet three Museum staff at the RDU airport heading to Yellowstone National Park! For the past few weeks, everyone has been preparing in their own way. Team members shared snippets of what’s been going on as they look forward to this snow-filled educational adventure to our first national park….

Adam testing out his winter gear and camera.

Adam testing out his winter gear and camera.

Adam writes:

Here we are just a few short days out and I feel both prepared and unprepared at the same time! I know that I am ready. I have read “American Wolf,” studied my topic for discussion, watched documentaries about Yellowstone, watched YouTube videos on winter wildlife photography, read multiple articles about layering to stay warm and bought all the appropriate gear! Yet here I am doing a dry run on packing my bag and trying on clothes in our few 30-degree days thinking am I missing something — what is left to do? During a 6-mile training hike today, my wife reminded me to just relax. I have done all the prep work, I have everything I need, ‘just get ready to enjoy this once-in-a-lifetime experience,’ that I have been blessed to be a part of!

Johlynn and her kitty reading American Wolf together.

Johlynn and her kitty reading “American Wolf” together.

Johlynn writes:

I cannot believe that in just a matter of days I will be in Yellowstone.  When I talked with my elementary students about the trip, they especially enjoyed hearing that I am going to switch roles and be the student for a week; I told them I even had homework!  Speaking of which, my cats Tabitha and Agatha have been working through our assigned reading, “American Wolf,” by Nate Blakeslee, with me. It’s been fascinating learning about the history of wolves in Yellowstone, and I am very hopeful for wolf sightings on the trip.  My Edgewood Wolfies (future Whiteville High Wolfpack) especially hope I can bring back some photos and videos of wolves.  My cats have also been good sports while I worked on another pre-trip task: familiarizing myself with my new digital camera.

Tracy's daughter helps her prepare substitute plans for her time away from school.

Tracy’s daughter helps her prepare substitute plans for her time away from school.

From Tracy:

The Best and Worst of Preparing for Yellowstone.

Best = Packing the Layers! It’s going to be COLD and snowy and I’m feeling prepared and blessed as I try on all my gear that my family and friends gifted me in 50-degree Raleigh weather.

Worst = The worst is time spent preparing sub[stitute] plans while I’m gone. It takes HOURS and HOURS of preparing 30+ lessons for while I’m out. But on the bright side, my 5th graders are super excited to track our team’s whereabouts on poster-sized maps of Yellowstone and read about our daily adventures on our blog.

Landon's very organized packing... this blog editor is impressed.

Landon’s very organized packing… this blog editor is impressed.

From Landon:

I always start my preparation for a trip with a packing list. I’ve been going over what I need & then checking twice to make sure I have it in my stack. I’ve been playing around with my smaller suitcase to see if I can squeeze everything into that! I used this trip as an excuse to buy a new carry-on duffle bag. I am SO looking forward to Yellowstone during winter! My shoe gaiters came in & were the wrong size, so I panicked and bought two new pairs. I’m hoping they both come in time & that one of them fits… Here’s hoping. 🙂

Kelly's cat is checking to make sure she's packing enough warm clothes.

Kelly’s cat is checking to make sure she’s packing enough warm clothes.

From Kelly:

How does one prepare for such an adventure? Luckily we got a list — two pages of stuff — that our intrepid leaders recommended that we pack so that we will have an amazing experience in the freezing Yellowstone landscape. I’ve found lots of stuff in my closet, borrowed other things, and thrifted a few. Luckily my cat is doing quality control on this hodgepodge of gear. I’ve been working on this for weeks, slowly adding things to the pile in my guest bedroom as I think of them, and I’ll do a final packing the night before we have to be at the airport at 4am. Until then, I’m dreaming of frosty bison, starry nights, steamy geysers and howling wolves. Oh yeah, and I’m still packing, and packing, and packing….

Getting ready!! I have my hand warmers and learned what a balaclava is … and bought 2!! Can’t wait to see everyone again at RDU at 4am. It’s an early morning I’m thrilled about!

From Angie: “Getting ready!! I have my hand warmers and learned what a balaclava is … and bought two!! Can’t wait to see everyone again at RDU at 4am. It’s an early morning I’m thrilled about!”

Sallie writes:

I’m spending the weekend figuring out just how many warm layers I can wear at once! Answer: many! The snowy and blustery weather in Western North Carolina is helping me gain some perspective on how Yellowstone might feel. Temps in the mid-30s like we have today are MUCH warmer than what we will experience during our entire time in the park. As I prepare for the coldest temperatures and wind chills I’ve ever experienced, I am getting excited for the snow and wildlife, and seeing how the landscape changes from dawn to dark!

We hope you will follow our adventure over the next week as we explore the magic of Yellowstone in Winter. We’ll post a blog each night of our trip, so check back often!

Tropical Ecology

“Seremei and Ayou!”

We are traveling back to Raleigh today. As our trip concludes, we have been spending a lot of time reflecting on our experiences, both as a group and individually. It is a bittersweet time. We are excited to see our families and be in our own beds but are going to miss our new educator friends. It has been an amazing trip full of laughs, inside jokes, and pushing ourselves out of our comfort zones. We are thankful for the group that Megan, Melissa and Andy assembled and for their endless attention to detail, unwavering enthusiasm and leadership. We are also thankful for our Belizean guides Nathan and Zhawn, who were incredible ambassadors for their country and passionate to share about their culture and all the flora and fauna of Belize. Lastly, we’re grateful to Neysy and Kaylie, the two Belizean teachers who joined us, for jumping on the bus with fifteen strangers and sharing the journey.

group on boat

Our final boat ride, departing South Water Caye for the mainland at Dangrigia, a bus ride to the airport, and a flight home to Raleigh

Thank you for following along with us and goodbye! Seremei and Ayou! (Thank you and goodbye in Garifuna!)

Tropical Ecology

“Last Day on the Island”

We can’t believe this is our last full day in Belize! At times, it feels like we just got here, but we are all looking forward to returning to our loved ones at home as well. For our last day, we started off with another delicious Belizean breakfast before taking off on a boat to the Carrie Bow Caye Smithsonian research station. We met the manager of the facility, Kevin, who showed us around and explained the important work being done at the center.

group standing in front of research station

The start of our tour at the Smithsonian field station on Carrie Bow Caye.

After finishing at the research center, we made our way by boat to the mangroves to snorkel around their amazing roots looking for all kinds of life. Even though we did not get to see a manatee (la vaca del mar), there were some very impressive starfish. The experience of snorkeling in such an incredible ecosystem was unparalleled.

We then explored more reef life snorkeling just behind the barrier reef. We saw spiny sea urchins, friendly parrotfish couples, flowy sea anemones and all variety of beautiful coral that plays host to a ton of important sea life. After an invigorating swim back the boat, we headed home to South Water Caye for our lunch and our closing events.

snorkler holding large starfish

Neysy posed for a photo with one of the starfish we found.

parrotfish on reef

Parrotfish and various corals.

group eating lunch at long table

Our final lunch at South Water Caye.

We had a relaxing afternoon with some well-deserved free time after an action-packed trip. Some of us did some journaling on the beach while others went on one final snorkel off the beach. We also had to prepare presentations/performances for our last night together. We worked on skits, charades and superlatives, which we presented after our final dinner on the island. It was great to laugh and have fun together; it’s hard to believe we barely knew each other a week ago! After dinner, we were visited by Ugudarigi Cultural Group for a Garifuna drum performance and dance lesson lit by a beach bonfire. It was a great way to experience some more local culture and the best way to finish off our stay in South Water Caye!

skit on porch

For one of our final presentations we played the newly invented gameshow “Parody” with answers all about our Belize experience.

Dancers in front of bonfire

Learning the punta.

Tropical Ecology

“Life on the Island”

Late last night (Saturday) a small group of us gathered around Danny, a young Belizean boy who just finished eighth grade, on the pier at our Pelican Beach lodging. Danny was casting his line and a hook with a chunk of bait fish (without using a rod) into the crystal clear Caribbean water. Almost instantly his line tugged because he had hooked something. The fish fought but, as he expertly pulled the line in, we marveled at a magnificent 28” barracuda. The sleek scales shimmered in the light of our flashlights as he pulled it onto the dock to unhook it. Soon, after such a long and eventful day, we all drifted to sleep to the soothing rhythm of the Caribbean waves crashing onto the shore and reef of South Water Caye Marine Preserve.

barricuda

Barracuda

This morning, we were awakened by gusts of ocean breeze entering our rooms as the sun rose over our little piece of paradise. Nathan guided us around the perimeter of the island for our morning walk. We saw seashells, coral fragments, pumice, conch shells and a few friendly island dogs. Nathan demonstrated the proper way to clean and crack a coconut for the group. We continued our way back around the shore until we arrived back to our resort and our open-air dining room. We were served a traditional Belizean breakfast of eggs, bacon, cheese, fruit and fry jacks. We were eager to get out and explore the wondrous underwater world of the Belize Barrier Reef, which is the second largest in the world.

As we rode out to the reef, we first stopped at Tobacco Caye range, and Mr. Omar (our snorkel guide) briefly told us the importance of protecting the West Indian manatee, also known as the “sea cow” in Belize. We were really hoping to see one, but we had no luck. These animals are endangered because only one calf is born every two to five years and they are often harmed by boats and humans since they hang out mostly in the mangroves and shallow water. We marveled at a new fun fact: they only need to come up for air every five minutes.

man cracking coconut

Nathan showing us how to open a coconut

group on boat in front of green island with birds overhead

Watching magnificent frigate birds and brown boobies at Man O’ War Caye

Next, we stopped to check out Man O’ War Caye (aka Bird Island) and viewed frigate birds and brown boobies in their natural habitat and nesting area on the mangroves. When we arrived at the reef, everyone put on their mask and fins, before jumping into the clear Caribbean water. We viewed many coral formations and numerous species of fish including a school of tarpon, stoplight parrotfish, and sting rays. This was a reminder of why we need to preserve and protect our valuable coral reefs.

school of yellow fish in front of coral

School of grunts

sea urchin in hand

Sea urchin

multi colored fish

Stoplight parrotfish female

After a splendid time filled with snorkeling we returned to our resort and enjoyed a traditional Belizean Sunday lunch of BBQ chicken, potato salad, rice and beans. We also got to taste Danny’s catch of barracuda from the previous night and some snapper caught by our Belizean teachers Neysy and Kaylie. We had some down time after lunch and enjoyed some rest and relaxation in the oceanside hammocks and chairs, listening to the peaceful sounds of the ocean waves. At 3:30pm, we all jumped back in the water to snorkel to the nearby reefs off our island, which were teeming with fish and beautiful coral specimens. We then met for a short group meeting. Endless laughter followed as we discussed what challenges we had encountered for our trip and what was our favorite thing we saw at the reef while snorkeling. We had dinner and a night snorkeling session to wrap up our day.

group sitting on deck in front of sunset

Group meeting

Tropical Ecology

“Island Time”

We’re on island time now!

We slept last night to the tune of torrential downpour in the jungle. While the newly muddy paths did not dissuade any of our avid birders from tramping through the jungle in search of wildlife first thing this morning, the rain did cancel our original plans to paint the St. Jude Roman Catholic Primary School near the Maya Center. Instead, we dropped off all our painting supplies and our various donations at the Maya Center and then said goodbye to the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary.

Remember what we looked like when we met in Raleigh in April…

12 head shots of group

Before the trip…

After our time in the Jaguar Preserve, here we are…

12 head shots in a grid

After the Jaguar Preserve.

On the outskirts of Dangriga, we stopped at the Garifuna Museum. We were welcomed by Wahrisi, our phenomenal museum guide; she then led us through the various exhibits telling us about the history, cooking, and agricultural accomplishments of the Garinagu people. Along the way, she sang us traditional songs, and then showed us two of the drums, the Segunda and the Primero, central to their rich musical traditions.

two drums side by side, one larger

The Primero (left, tenor) and Segundo (right, bass) drums used in Garifuna music

We then headed to the Pelican Beach Resort to drop off our luggage and eat lunch. After a delicious meal, we loaded up two boats – one for our luggage and one for us – and headed to our new, temporary island home at South Water Caye. The boat ride was forty-five minutes of endless blue water and brilliant blue skies overhead, and it ended at a tropical island paradise.

After settling into our cabins around the island, we all met up with our snorkel gear to check everyone’s masks and get a feel for swimming in a group in the clear waters of the Caribbean Sea. What most of thought would be a brief check of our gear turned into an hour of snorkeling, exploring the shallow waters right off the beach. We got to hold a sea cucumber, and we saw conch shells, a spiny lobster, a southern stingray, coral, reef butterflyfish, rock beauty, cocoa damselfish and graysby.

group walking down dock

Heading down the dock in Dangriga to board a boat for the trip to South Water Caye

three people next to chalk board with palm trees in the background

We were warmly welcomed to our island home on South Water Caye

Our daily meeting was held at sunset on a platform overlooking the sea. It was a perfectly picturesque end to a day that started wet and gray in the jungle. After dinner, we have our first night without a night hike, so we are taking advantage of the time to set up hammocks and enjoy the island breeze. We’re looking forward to the next two days of snorkeling and keeping our fingers crossed for more beautiful, sunny weather.