Some places hold onto a piece of you just a bit longer than planned. Four cancelled flights and three and a half days later than our original departure, today was our final, final, final, final last day in South Africa. It was just as we manifested it to be: we went whale watching!
Marine Big 4 out of 5
With the help of Marine Dynamics, a shark and whale watching tour company based in the Western Cape, we pushed out into the Atlantic’s 9-12 foot waves, just west of the Indian Ocean. Our driver Waldo said, “We weren’t climbing mountains, but it was pretty high!” Despite the rough seas, our vessel Slash Fin provided exceptional viewing! We found 4 of the Marine Big 5: whales, sharks, seals, and penguins. It was too rough to seek dolphins.
Views from our whale watching expedition.
We motored past Danger Point and met up with an albatross, a humpback whale, a Southern right whale, and a mola mola. Then we swung back to Geyser Rock and were stunned by the scent and sight of thousands of Cape fur seals and the many pairs of African penguins that occupy Dyer Island. As we headed back we witnessed a bronze whaler shark visiting tourists submerged in a cage.
Seal colony on Dyer Island (left) and the tail of a humpback whale (right).
While a few of us succumbed to the sea’s fury, most of us giggled for 2.5 hours with our feathered friends a mini flock of brown skua.
Brown skua keeping pace with our boat.
Beyond the wildlife we were in awe of the captain as we surfed home, threaded the harbor entrance, and (without hesitation) landed our boat on a trailer that was promptly plucked out of the bay by a John Deere tractor. Then we disembarked for a bowl of butternut squash soup while our mates recovered.
Walker Bay
We then spent our afternoon in Hermanus on the cliff path in the Fernkloof Nature Preserve. Just when we thought we couldn’t take another picture, South Africa stunned us with her beauty. A plethora of rock hyrax scooting across folded basalt, wild cow lillies (aka pigs’ ears), and the massive wave energy rolling through the kelp forest were only a few of the sights that stunned us.
Walking in Hermanus after our morning whale watching.
Cape Town International Airport
It is 10:30pm, we have a gate, boarding passes, and should wake up in Amsterdam. This just might be goodbye to Cape Town, South Africa.
We did leave behind Khadijah’s YETI, Flavia’s Ocracoke School dolphin, the contents of Emily’s stomach, part of Stephanie’s birthday cake, and a BIG piece of our hearts. We take with us memories and a new extended family.
Our final South African sunrise did not disappoint.
This morning at 5:14am I opened my eyes with the realization that today would be our last full day in South Africa. While there was excitement about visiting the Cape of Good Hope and seeing African penguins up close, a wave of emotion hit — the kind that comes when something deeply meaningful is beginning to wind down.
Setting out for a day of Cape Peninsula adventures.
Last night during our group meeting I shared that many of us have experienced our own version of Eat, Pray, Love on this journey. What that means will vary for each of us who’ve shared the past 16 days, but the transformation is something we all feel.
Our group meals have evolved from efficient, polite conversations into something intimate and full of life — shared stories, passed plates, deep laughter, and meaningful connection. We’ve grown from a group of 18 near-strangers into something that feels very much like a family.
Some of us live close enough to already be planning ways to meet up again, to maintain the bonds we’ve formed. We’re also looking ahead to November, when we’ll reunite at the museum and share how we’ve brought this experience home — into our classrooms and school communities.
But this is the tricky part — how do you say goodbye to people who have become a part of your heart, knowing your paths may never cross again? How do you return home with the knowledge that a piece of yourself will forever remain here, in this breathtaking country?
Each night, our reflections have been guided by thoughtful questions meant to help us process this experience. And I think many of us are still trying to fully understand how South Africa — and especially its people — have changed us.
There have been quiet conversations about how we’ll share this journey with our students and loved ones, and deeper talks about the personal growth we’ve experienced. As educators, we’ve dedicated our lives to preparing the next generation to discover who they are and how they can make the world a better place. The connections we’ve made and the perspective we’ve gained will help us do that work with more authenticity and a deeper, global understanding — because once you look beyond the surface, you realize: we are all one family.
A windy hike at the Cape of Good Hope.
Then, just when we were bracing ourselves for goodbyes, life threw us a curveball: our return flight was canceled. We’re still working out the details, but in true South African spirit, we’re choosing to make the most of it. We’re leaning into the extra time we’ve been given here, soaking in every last moment.
Today we made it to the Cape of Good Hope — and it did not disappoint. The hike to the tip felt like stepping into Middle-earth or a forgotten corner of the world. It was breathtaking in every sense, with rugged landscapes, dramatic cliffs, and even close encounters with baboons. We split into two groups — one took the bus to the lighthouse while the rest of us hiked the trail. We all met at the base, faces full of smiles, as we posed proudly beside the Cape of Good Hope sign before continuing on.
We are a sign-loving crew, so couldn’t pass up the opportunity to take a photo with the Cape of Good Hope sign!
Next, we visited Boulders Penguin Sanctuary — a dream come true for many in our group. There, we watched wild African penguins waddling freely along the beach. The comical little creatures delighted everyone. One group member even fulfilled a student’s wish by mimicking a penguin’s waddle, joined by several others — creating a moment of pure joy and laughter.
When you’re visiting African penguins, what choice do you have but to waddle with them?!
As we ride the bus to a late lunch, a familiar lyric echoes in my mind — “because I knew you, I have been changed for good.” It’s from the musical Wicked, and it feels like the perfect reflection of what this experience has meant. Saying goodbye to Noma and Zinhle — the incredible South African educators who joined us on this journey — will be especially hard, knowing our paths may never cross again. But each of us carries something lasting from the time we’ve shared. We are different now. Better. Wiser. And in the truest sense of the phrase — changed for good.
And so, I’ll close with a line from an earlier blog that still holds true:
You don’t just visit South Africa. You fall into it — heart first. So deep and so suddenly, you don’t even realize it’s happening… until you’ve already changed. Forever — and beautifully. — unknown
As we took in the breathtaking scenery, we watched seals playing in the turquoise waves below.
In education we are pros at being flexible, planning for all situations, and executing the unexpected pivot. And after our whale watching tour was canceled yesterday, and we had to rearrange our flights today, we continued to execute those skills.
The whole crew as we say goodbye to Andrew and David, our beloved guides.
Instead of heading to the airport to fly to Cape Town, we spent another day on the eastern part of South Africa, heading into iSimangaliso Wetland Park for a game drive. The extra day allowed us to slow down, and to practice “zen” birding instead of the “extreme” birding we engaged in with David in Wakkerstroom. In iSimangaliso we watched birds hover in the strong head winds, staying still instead of flying off to a destination. We also finally saw a Martial Eagle, a majestic bird that had been mentioned throughout the trip, but not yet seen. Our morning of zen birding reminded us to slow down and to appreciate the little things in life.
Some of the birds we saw while exploring iSimangaliso Wetland Park included a Martial Eagle (left) and a pair of African Pygmy Geese (right).
While in iSimangaliso we also saw and caught a Giant Dung Beetle that was flying around, and was able to reflect on his purpose. He uses what most discard (feces) and in turn is able to recycle those nutrients and help build and grow its landscape. Such a tiny creature brought us so much joy, as it was one of the animals we’d missed seeing while in Kruger National Park. We’ve seen and appreciated many of the big things, and today we were able to focus on the tiny miracles.
A Giant Dung Beetle. These insects fly so haphazardly that they sometimes literally crash land to the ground – providing great opportunities for closer exploration!
After our game drive we headed south to a suburb of Durban, where we could see the majestic Indian Ocean and experience the hustle and bustle of a city. Here we had time to explore and relax, and continue to get to know each other and South Africa.
In life when you are constantly moving it’s easy to forget that while the big things matter, the little things matter too. In fact, in many cases those little things are the things that TRULY matter.
As our time here is coming close to an end, we are taking in every last moment, both big and small. We are reflecting on what we have experienced and been through, but also on what has changed in us and the difference we can make when we return home. With only a few days left we are treasuring each and every one of these slow, intentional moments.
Slowing down and appreciating the beauty of iSimangaliso Wetland Park.
Beginning with the first footstep taken upon arriving at a destination, a traveler is writing a narrative starting with “hello” and ending with “goodbye.” “Hello” serves as the traveler’s introduction to the area, a way for them to say “Here I am, let me explore and learn your ways.” The traveler uses this time to take first glances and make alterations to plans and expectations. The land and the animals respond by observing the traveler and taking note of how they may be treated during the traveler’s stay.
Likewise, each time a traveler leaves a destination they are therefore saying goodbye. Goodbye to all that has been seen, heard, smelled, and even tasted.
The entrance to Berg-en-Dal Rest Camp. Lovingly described by our group as the “Jurassic Park” entrance.
Today began with our first of many goodbyes, by saying farewell to Berg-en-Dal. We packed our bags slowly, almost like reluctant children not wanting to complete their homework. We made our beds with jealousy for the new occupants. We closed windows and shut doors while taking in deep breaths of the sweet air we had been breathing. Many of us walked paths one last time, hoping to see an animal friend that had been made. Many of us visited benches that had brought comfort and healing. Many of us simply took time to stop and steal one more minute of the beauty we had enjoyed.
The insects whizzing through the air, sounding like the engines of race cars. The birds calling to each other to follow in flight. The monkeys plotting for their next meal. Every sound, every sight, and every smell was being sucked up by each of us as we tried to get it one. last. time.
But no, this will not be a goodbye. Goodbyes are forever, final. Instead, let this be a “see you later,” which encourages a return. A see you later means we’ll do it all again. To the herd of elephants that crossed the rocky cliff behind our lodge each afternoon, the bushbuck that explored our back patio, and even the mischievous monkeys that used the tents as trampolines, we say see you later. We WILL meet again.
Sunset over the bush.
As we packed up and left Berg-en-Dal, we asked our group how they were saying “see you later” – here are those responses:
“I’m ready to leave Berg-en-Dal, my phone don’t work here! I did truly enjoy my breakfast with Noma and Flavia. I gave Berg-en-Dal three kisses goodbye.” -Khadijah
“I walked the Rhino Trail with coffee and reflected on humans being fenced in. When we collectively have restraint or boundaries, we are happier, like children.” -Shannon
“C’est la vie to Berg-en-Dal, South Africa. The time has come to say goodbye and see you next time. I told God, ‘Thank you for the majestic beauty he created and allowing me to see his wondrous work.’ Until we meet again.” -Pam
“It’s goodbye now and hello to our next new destination.” -Zinhle
“I woke up early to watch the sunrise over the watering hole and listen to the birds and vervet monkeys all around me. I listened and watched, and was joyful and thankful for our time at Berg-en-Dal.” -Christine
Sunrise at Berg-en-Dal Rest Camp.
“I said see you later along the Rhino Trail on the outskirts of camp. I accidentally startled a vervet monkey, and stood quietly to apologize. A few steps later, I locked eyes with a giraffe just beyond the fence. As one of my favorite animals, I silently thanked him for greeting me and sharing his space with us. Our Berg-en-Dal bush gave us so many memories.” -Stephanie
“Goodbye to the lilac-breasted roller, my “spark” bird, brilliant and bright. Goodbye to the friendly spider next to my bed who abided by the agreement to keep your pinchers to yourself. Goodbye to the leopard that alluded us all day, only showing his face to make things right.” -Emily
“I didn’t know how to say goodbye to a place that gave me the most incredible day of my life. But I remembered my students don’t let us say goodbye, just see you later, because it isn’t final.” -Ashley
Ashley presenting on her expert topic.
“I don’t believe in goodbyes!” -Shelley
“Thank you for providing me with one of the most incredible days of my life. The location, people, and experiences were incredible.” -Michael
“Thank you Berg-en-Dal for starting this journey with joy, amazement, and awe!” -Flavia
“ I would not like to move there, but I would come again with a bigger family. I think it was nice.” -Noma
Noma and Flavia as they packed up and said goodbye to their Berg-en-Dal home.
“Berg-en-Dal, you did not disappoint. Thank you for rejuvenating my soul and bringing me some amazing memories. The heartbeat of the bush is within me now and will keep calling me back to you.” -Amy
“Goodbye to the red-eyed dove that wished me a good morning and the fiery-necked nightjar that bade me good night. Goodbye to the sounds of Berg-en-Dal, until we meet again.” -Andrew
“Waking with the sun and walking with curiosity – watching for birds, investigating seeds and tracks, and navigating past docile bushbuck – deepened my connection and appreciation to this space, even as we said our goodbyes.” -Emma
The whole group on our journey from Berg-en-Dal to Skukuza Rest Camp, our next stop in Kruger National Park.
January 22, 2020
-
Comments Off on Not Goodbye, Just See You Later
It has been a bittersweet day, to say the least. While we watched for wildlife in Lamar Valley before dawn, the magnitude of the moment sat heavy with us. This would be our last trip to the valley. Luckily, the wildlife did not disappoint. We were able to see many moose, big horn sheep, bison, foxes, coyotes, and even a golden eagle! A raven put on quite the show for us as we watched for wolves at Tower Junction, the first place the Wapiti Pack graced us with their presence.
A raven checks out the team as we scan the horizon for wolves. Ravens are bigger than our crows, and have deeper croaking calls.
This afternoon we were joined by Ranger Mike as we walked through the Mammoth Terraces. This is such a unique, ever-changing geologic feature. As calcium carbonate precipitates out of the hot water, new rocks are formed here daily, creating stair step features that accumulate rapidly (sometimes more than six feet a year)! It really looked like something from another planet. Ranger Mike was very knowledgeable about the park, and gave us a great demonstration of how geysers work. His humor and quick wit made learning about the terraces even more fun!
Surveying the seemingly alien landscape of Mammoth Terraces.
As our time in Yellowstone drew to a close, a somber mood fell over the group. We approached the archway of the northeast entrance, and many a tear began to flow. Katherine read us one final quote in the park.
“Thousands of tired, nerve shaken, overcivilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home: That wildness is a necessity; that mountain parks are reservations useful not only as foundations of timber and irrigating rivers, but as fountains of life.”
– John Muir
With Yellowstone in the rear view mirror, and with very heavy hearts, we said goodbye to this magical, transformative place.
Mammoth Terraces
Many tears and heartfelt reflections were shared at our final group meeting. It is very clear that we have forged powerful, lasting bonds with our teammates. We have supported and uplifted each other, validated each other in our individual journeys on this trip, and built a truly unique safe space where our vulnerabilities made us a stronger team. Going our separate ways is going to be tough, but we will stay connected and always be in each other’s hearts.
To both our team and Yellowstone ….. this isn’t goodbye, just see you later.
