Some places hold onto a piece of you just a bit longer than planned. Four cancelled flights and three and a half days later than our original departure, today was our final, final, final, final last day in South Africa. It was just as we manifested it to be: we went whale watching!
Marine Big 4 out of 5
With the help of Marine Dynamics, a shark and whale watching tour company based in the Western Cape, we pushed out into the Atlantic’s 9-12 foot waves, just west of the Indian Ocean. Our driver Waldo said, “We weren’t climbing mountains, but it was pretty high!” Despite the rough seas, our vessel Slash Fin provided exceptional viewing! We found 4 of the Marine Big 5: whales, sharks, seals, and penguins. It was too rough to seek dolphins.
Views from our whale watching expedition.
We motored past Danger Point and met up with an albatross, a humpback whale, a Southern right whale, and a mola mola. Then we swung back to Geyser Rock and were stunned by the scent and sight of thousands of Cape fur seals and the many pairs of African penguins that occupy Dyer Island. As we headed back we witnessed a bronze whaler shark visiting tourists submerged in a cage.
Seal colony on Dyer Island (left) and the tail of a humpback whale (right).
While a few of us succumbed to the sea’s fury, most of us giggled for 2.5 hours with our feathered friends a mini flock of brown skua.
Brown skua keeping pace with our boat.
Beyond the wildlife we were in awe of the captain as we surfed home, threaded the harbor entrance, and (without hesitation) landed our boat on a trailer that was promptly plucked out of the bay by a John Deere tractor. Then we disembarked for a bowl of butternut squash soup while our mates recovered.
Walker Bay
We then spent our afternoon in Hermanus on the cliff path in the Fernkloof Nature Preserve. Just when we thought we couldn’t take another picture, South Africa stunned us with her beauty. A plethora of rock hyrax scooting across folded basalt, wild cow lillies (aka pigs’ ears), and the massive wave energy rolling through the kelp forest were only a few of the sights that stunned us.
Walking in Hermanus after our morning whale watching.
Cape Town International Airport
It is 10:30pm, we have a gate, boarding passes, and should wake up in Amsterdam. This just might be goodbye to Cape Town, South Africa.
We did leave behind Khadijah’s YETI, Flavia’s Ocracoke School dolphin, the contents of Emily’s stomach, part of Stephanie’s birthday cake, and a BIG piece of our hearts. We take with us memories and a new extended family.
Our final South African sunrise did not disappoint.
We should be home. You all should be in our arms by now, with tears shed when we saw your faces at the airport arrivals. We should hear laundry spinning, feel our carpet between our toes, enjoy couches holding our tired bodies, and smell the distinct scent of home.
We should be celebrating and handing out souvenirs, sharing African candy and snacks we loved. You would be looking over our shoulders at photos of lions and elephants, taking in the glorious scenery that pictures can’t do justice. You’d be getting a glimpse into experiences we can’t put into words.
Instead we are here. And you are there. We’re in another flight cancellation or delay or whatever at this point. Our hearts are so full from this trip and we are excited for the adventure of the day. But we are also filled with anxiety about the next flight arrangement, worried about going back to work, as school has already started without some of us. Money is running out. Clean clothes ran out days ago. And we miss you. If someone could let our 4-legged friends that can’t read blogs know we miss them, too, that would be great!
Our last group photo before saying goodbye to Noma and Zinhle – we will miss them.
We celebrated burnt toast theory just days ago. Today, we want to be home. As a group of teachers, it’s been hard for many of us to relinquish control. But, Emma and Christy have been fearless leaders and have led us through so many fires, many I doubt we are even aware of. So, we are sitting in the waiting. And for many of us, that is not a comfortable place. Some of us are content and some of us are rescheduling appointments and remaking plans.
We visited the Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town today and it was fantastic! The heavy focus on conservation was refreshing to see. We got to see coral, seahorses, beautiful fish, and sting rays up close. We saw a turtle with a prosthetic on his shell that is teaching him how to balance as he swims, so he can soon swim in the ocean again. We heard the story of a rescued Loggerhead Sea Turtle who will be released in a few days once his rehabilitation is complete.
Despite looming schedule changes, we had a great time at the aquarium.
A glimpse at a sea turtle prosthetic. We watched this turtle interact with the loggerhead that was just released into this enclosure, hopefully to be released into the wild in the coming days!
After the aquarium we took a very wet walk in the rain. By the end we were cold, soaked, and a little more ready to go home. Some of us handled this really well and some of us needed a minute. After we (mostly) dried off we toured the Iziko South African Museum. We were able to take time and read detailed information and see exhibits about all the animals, plants, rocks, and cultures we’ve experienced while in South Africa.
When cloudy walks turn into rainy walks.
Exploring the Iziko South African Museum. Can you find Stephanie?
Then we got our updated travel plans. And we struggled to process. We wouldn’t be home for three more days.
But, there was something I’d seen in an exhibit that came back to me. It was on Hominids and how our ancestors are tied to us. A caption said:
“How many struggles, celebrations, hurt, love stories, meals shared, hopes and dreams, and journeys did your ancestors experience for you to be here?”
And it helped me reframe. We are here and so many pieces had to fall into place to get us all here right now. As hard as some of this has been, how awesome is it that we are still together in this amazing place? That we have been given time to potentially make up the things we lost, like whale watching? Lindsay’s husband said she is always so good at finding the silver lining. So, we are going to search for the silver lining and make the most of the time we are being given here. If we can’t be with our family, we are glad to be with each other. We have been sharing meals and hopes and dreams for two weeks. We will stay on this journey together.
“It takes both sun and rain for a flower to grow.” We’ve had so much sun on this trip. A little rain isn’t going to hurt.
Post aquarium visit, getting ready to walk to the Iziko South African Museum.
In education we are pros at being flexible, planning for all situations, and executing the unexpected pivot. And after our whale watching tour was canceled yesterday, and we had to rearrange our flights today, we continued to execute those skills.
The whole crew as we say goodbye to Andrew and David, our beloved guides.
Instead of heading to the airport to fly to Cape Town, we spent another day on the eastern part of South Africa, heading into iSimangaliso Wetland Park for a game drive. The extra day allowed us to slow down, and to practice “zen” birding instead of the “extreme” birding we engaged in with David in Wakkerstroom. In iSimangaliso we watched birds hover in the strong head winds, staying still instead of flying off to a destination. We also finally saw a Martial Eagle, a majestic bird that had been mentioned throughout the trip, but not yet seen. Our morning of zen birding reminded us to slow down and to appreciate the little things in life.
Some of the birds we saw while exploring iSimangaliso Wetland Park included a Martial Eagle (left) and a pair of African Pygmy Geese (right).
While in iSimangaliso we also saw and caught a Giant Dung Beetle that was flying around, and was able to reflect on his purpose. He uses what most discard (feces) and in turn is able to recycle those nutrients and help build and grow its landscape. Such a tiny creature brought us so much joy, as it was one of the animals we’d missed seeing while in Kruger National Park. We’ve seen and appreciated many of the big things, and today we were able to focus on the tiny miracles.
A Giant Dung Beetle. These insects fly so haphazardly that they sometimes literally crash land to the ground – providing great opportunities for closer exploration!
After our game drive we headed south to a suburb of Durban, where we could see the majestic Indian Ocean and experience the hustle and bustle of a city. Here we had time to explore and relax, and continue to get to know each other and South Africa.
In life when you are constantly moving it’s easy to forget that while the big things matter, the little things matter too. In fact, in many cases those little things are the things that TRULY matter.
As our time here is coming close to an end, we are taking in every last moment, both big and small. We are reflecting on what we have experienced and been through, but also on what has changed in us and the difference we can make when we return home. With only a few days left we are treasuring each and every one of these slow, intentional moments.
Slowing down and appreciating the beauty of iSimangaliso Wetland Park.
Burnt toast theory states that minor inconveniences can turn out to be blessings in disguise, and today highlighted this for us.
This morning we started with a much more than minor inconvenience when we arrived to breakfast to find out that it was too windy to go whale watching. This was a bucket list item for almost every one of us, and when it was confirmed that we couldn’t go and that it couldn’t be rescheduled, there were actual tears for some of us. It felt like a major loss.
Heading out for a morning bird walk.
We pivoted like we have had to do several times on this trip, and went on a bird walk before heading to the beach instead. During our walk I kept waiting for something fun and magical to confirm that missing whales was worth it. And I couldn’t see it. Then we walked down to the beach, put our toes in the sand, collected shells, and tiptoed into the icy Indian Ocean.
How do you explore a new beach and ocean? Synchronized cartwheels in the sand!
Something we’ve noticed about this trip is that we are being required to slow down. Fast food isn’t what we’re used to. Chick-fil-A gets your meal to you with a “my pleasure” in less than 5 minutes. That’s not happening here, as it takes closer to 20. Restaurant service is even longer, and meals come 2-3 at a time. We find ourselves being impatient, trying to speed up processes. Then we talk about it with each other and realize how much we actually ENJOY slowing down. We ask ourselves what it would be like if we stopped rushing when we get home and if we didn’t put so much pressure on ourselves and each other.
Our time is quickly coming to an end and we are all feeling excited to see our families and homes. We are also feeling the pressure of life that awaits us. How can we find the balance of the calm we’ve found here with all that comes with returning home? We’ve watched South African sunrises and sunsets, taken long morning walks with giraffes and coffee, shared dinner with rhinos, and made memories with new friends. We have seen and felt so much here: joy, astonishment, love, fullness, and more that we can’t wait to take back to our families. When we go home we will be spread across the state, hours apart, no longer in dorm style bedrooms, sharing bathrooms and group dinners. We have met people who will now be our best friends, and now we will be apart.
Flavia, Michael, Christine, and Andrew on a windy St. Lucia beach.
Tonight’s sunset happened in the company of a hippo family. I think we can learn something about how to approach going home from them:
“Hippos, despite their size, offer subtle yet powerful lessons on embracing imperfection, finding peace in stillness, and maintaining healthy social bonds”.
Sunset with hippos in iSimangaliso Wetland Park.
Three lessons were impressed upon us as we watched these graceful animals:
Embrace the mud and find comfort in imperfection. Hippos spend much of their time in mud, which represents the messy, imperfect parts of life.
Submerge yourself and find peace in stillness. Hippos are comfortable both in and out of the water, symbolizing the importance of finding moments of peace and quiet in our busy lives.
Know your people and make time with them. Celebrate and protect each other.
Our guides and drivers, Andrew and David, are leaving in the morning. Tonight we spent time reflecting on our highlights with each of them. At the end of the night Andrew said, “magic has happened here.” Each day in South Africa has been magic. We have been so blessed. We didn’t get to see whales today on the boat. But, we got to spend precious time slowing down together. Laughing, eating delicious food, and celebrating each other. We have just a few more days left before we get to bring this magic home. We can’t wait to slow down and share the sunrises and sunsets with you.
During the car ride today we were a bit more subdued than usual. The hearty breakfast and the quiet thrill of seeing ostriches, white rhinos, wildebeest, and giraffes had lulled us into a peaceful, drowsy state. As the landscape slowly shifted—from mountainous grasslands to dense forest, and finally to the sandy soil of a coastal town—there was a quiet reverence among us, a growing anticipation.
A morning bush walk before hitting the road for St. Lucia.
We arrived at Ndiza Lodge, our home for the next few days, and excitement buzzed through the group. Some were eager to explore the shops in St. Lucia, while others—my group—felt the pull of the ocean. We quickly split up, each group setting off in pursuit of a different kind of discovery.
The beach group set out with enthusiasm, eager to lay eyes on the Indian Ocean. As we neared the shore the air turned salty and fresh, the sound of crashing waves grew louder, and then suddenly, the ocean revealed itself—raw, powerful, and utterly breathtaking. The waves thundered against an expansive shoreline, while to the right, South Africa’s tallest sand dunes rose like giants. It was unlike anything we had ever seen back home in North Carolina.
A St. Lucia shoreline, featuring the Indian Ocean and sandy shores (left). Noma seeing the Indian Ocean for the first time (right).
We ran down the boardwalk and dipped our toes into the icy surf, laughing at the cold and marveling at the majesty before us. Some of us searched for birds or seashells; others simply wandered the shoreline. We spotted a ghost crab scurrying up the sand, and for a while we were lost in nature’s wonder. But amid the beauty, our joy was tinged with sadness—plastic waste littered the shore. Quietly, a few began picking it up, and we shared our frustration: how can a place so awe-inspiring be treated so carelessly? It was a sobering reminder of man’s impact, and yet the ocean remained—vast, wild, and humbling.
Trash on the beach.
Meanwhile, the intrepid shoppers cautiously trekked into town from the beautiful lodge, casting wary glances for any lurking hippos—a real possibility in St. Lucia. None were spotted, so they continued on, weaving through the streets and exploring local stalls. The town offered a vibrant mix of culture and craftsmanship. There were so many beautifully made goods, and many of us regretted that our suitcases were already bulging with souvenirs. The artisans were talented and proud of their work, happily sharing stories and smiles. Bartering was met with laughter and good-natured exchanges, and the whole experience felt like a joyful dance between traveler and host. It was more than shopping—it was a warm, human connection that left us smiling long after we left the stalls.
Exploring St. Lucia.
In the end, both groups reunited with arms full of treasures and hearts full of gratitude. Whether basking in the raw power of the ocean or chatting with local artists under a warm coastal breeze, we all felt deeply moved. We were grateful—for the beauty, for the connection, and for this incredible experience that reminded us of both nature’s grandeur and our responsibility to protect it.
Yesterday during our bush walk Edward, one of our rangers, pointed out an antlion cone. He explained that antlions construct these cones to trap prey and remain in this larval stage for about two years before pupating into adult insects that resemble dragonflies. Once they reach adulthood, they have only about two months to live. I was struck by the irony that once this creature finally learns to fly, its life is almost over.
An antlion larvae – they sit at the bottom of their “cones” in the sand, waiting for prey to fall in.
It made me think about how often people limit themselves by underestimating their abilities. Too often, we fall prey to societal norms, expectations, or our own limiting beliefs.
Today while driving from Skukuza to Wakkerstroom, one of my travel companions asked our guide David how he became a guide. He shared that as a child he loved birds, and one day realized he could use that passion to improve his life and grow as an individual.
While looking for wildlife in Kruger National Park, David often stopped for birds. Lots of other park visitors would stop too and ask what we were looking at, and would then keep driving when they realized it was only birds. Khadijah ended up getting David a magnet for his vehicle so folks would know what we were stopping for!
Both of these moments reminded me of our role as educators. Yes, we must teach children to read, do math, understand civics, and explore science. But perhaps an even more important role is helping them discover and nurture their innate abilities so they can advance themselves in life as early as possible.
As we continue to explore this beautiful country, I challenge those traveling with me—and anyone reading this—to reflect on how we can help the children in our lives realize they can “fly” sooner rather than later, so they can soar into brilliant futures, using their talents to make the world better. Our time is fleeting, and I hope each of us makes the most of it.
Quick stop at the Lowveld Botanical Garden.
Today, we drove out of the “Kruger bubble” and began to experience another side of South Africa. The streets were lined with markets and people, full of color, energy, and everyday life—a striking shift from the vast wilderness we’d just left behind.
One of many fruit and vegetable stands we passed on our travels today.
Much like the animals we are encountering humans are territorial, often seeking those who most resemble us. This instinct, while ancient, is not conducive to a stable society. South Africa’s journey with school desegregation mirrors that of the American South: parents with privilege frequently move their children to private schools, leaving public schools with fewer resources and opportunities. As a result, many students lose their chance at true equality. As educators traveling here and building relationships with our South African peers, we are reminded that progress comes when we step beyond those boundaries—when we choose collaboration over separation, and invest in creating opportunities that lift all children, not just those within our own circle.
P.S. The South African countryside is breathtaking. Golden fields stretch endlessly beneath an expansive sky, dotted occasionally with small farms and clusters of trees. Along the roadsides, we see a remarkable display of entrepreneurial spirit—fruit and vegetable stands, barbershops, makeshift building-supply stalls, and even individuals collecting small tolls to maintain paths around washed-out roads. The landscape feels both vast and alive, a reflection not only of natural beauty but also of the resourcefulness of its people.
Some of the golden fields of South Africa.
We are heading to an area that may not have service. If you don’t hear from us in the next few days, know we’re having a great time in Royal Natal National Park and will check back in when we have service!
In our time at Skukuza Rest Camp in Kruger National Park we have had two game drives and a bush walk. We have seen the spectacular Big Five multiple times over – elephants, rhinos, leopards, lions, and water buffalo.
Leopard crossing a bridgeCape buffalo spotted on a bush walkOne of many elephants eating reeds along a stream bed A male lion capitalizing on the heat from the road on a cool nightWe saw the Big 5 (rhinos, elephants, lions, buffalos, and leopards) on several occasions while in Kruger National Park.
However, the real magic is not only the Big 5 – it is in the balance of all the species in a community. Today we also sat behind a bird blind at Lake Panic where we saw acacia trees, kingfishers, blue waxbills, an African fish eagle, Retz’s helmetshrikes, an Egyptian goose, water monitors, nyala, impalas, a warthog, and too many hippos to count.
Enjoying the diversity of the ecosystem at the Lake Panic bird blind.
“In nature nothing exists alone.” – Rachel Carson
With at least 40 species in just an hour, our checklists were on fire!
At Lake Panic, we watched as hippos moved in and out of the water and displayed territorial behaviors.
After the bird blind we went back to camp and were asked to write about anything for 45-minutes. One of our African-American colleagues wrote, “I know as an American I have more, but here in South Africa …. I have never felt so free.”
Starting the day with a bush walk.
Hearing her share this took us by surprise. It made us reflect not only on what she is experiencing personally, but how our students may feel at home. What if every teacher and every child felt they belong? Imagine how they would flourish and contribute to a better North Carolina.
Sharing American and South African dances with each other during midday breaks.
In Kruger National Park the African fish eagleneeds the lake and the hippo shapes the land. Nothing is superfluous, everyone is needed for the system to thrive.
Beginning with the first footstep taken upon arriving at a destination, a traveler is writing a narrative starting with “hello” and ending with “goodbye.” “Hello” serves as the traveler’s introduction to the area, a way for them to say “Here I am, let me explore and learn your ways.” The traveler uses this time to take first glances and make alterations to plans and expectations. The land and the animals respond by observing the traveler and taking note of how they may be treated during the traveler’s stay.
Likewise, each time a traveler leaves a destination they are therefore saying goodbye. Goodbye to all that has been seen, heard, smelled, and even tasted.
The entrance to Berg-en-Dal Rest Camp. Lovingly described by our group as the “Jurassic Park” entrance.
Today began with our first of many goodbyes, by saying farewell to Berg-en-Dal. We packed our bags slowly, almost like reluctant children not wanting to complete their homework. We made our beds with jealousy for the new occupants. We closed windows and shut doors while taking in deep breaths of the sweet air we had been breathing. Many of us walked paths one last time, hoping to see an animal friend that had been made. Many of us visited benches that had brought comfort and healing. Many of us simply took time to stop and steal one more minute of the beauty we had enjoyed.
The insects whizzing through the air, sounding like the engines of race cars. The birds calling to each other to follow in flight. The monkeys plotting for their next meal. Every sound, every sight, and every smell was being sucked up by each of us as we tried to get it one. last. time.
But no, this will not be a goodbye. Goodbyes are forever, final. Instead, let this be a “see you later,” which encourages a return. A see you later means we’ll do it all again. To the herd of elephants that crossed the rocky cliff behind our lodge each afternoon, the bushbuck that explored our back patio, and even the mischievous monkeys that used the tents as trampolines, we say see you later. We WILL meet again.
Sunset over the bush.
As we packed up and left Berg-en-Dal, we asked our group how they were saying “see you later” – here are those responses:
“I’m ready to leave Berg-en-Dal, my phone don’t work here! I did truly enjoy my breakfast with Noma and Flavia. I gave Berg-en-Dal three kisses goodbye.” -Khadijah
“I walked the Rhino Trail with coffee and reflected on humans being fenced in. When we collectively have restraint or boundaries, we are happier, like children.” -Shannon
“C’est la vie to Berg-en-Dal, South Africa. The time has come to say goodbye and see you next time. I told God, ‘Thank you for the majestic beauty he created and allowing me to see his wondrous work.’ Until we meet again.” -Pam
“It’s goodbye now and hello to our next new destination.” -Zinhle
“I woke up early to watch the sunrise over the watering hole and listen to the birds and vervet monkeys all around me. I listened and watched, and was joyful and thankful for our time at Berg-en-Dal.” -Christine
Sunrise at Berg-en-Dal Rest Camp.
“I said see you later along the Rhino Trail on the outskirts of camp. I accidentally startled a vervet monkey, and stood quietly to apologize. A few steps later, I locked eyes with a giraffe just beyond the fence. As one of my favorite animals, I silently thanked him for greeting me and sharing his space with us. Our Berg-en-Dal bush gave us so many memories.” -Stephanie
“Goodbye to the lilac-breasted roller, my “spark” bird, brilliant and bright. Goodbye to the friendly spider next to my bed who abided by the agreement to keep your pinchers to yourself. Goodbye to the leopard that alluded us all day, only showing his face to make things right.” -Emily
“I didn’t know how to say goodbye to a place that gave me the most incredible day of my life. But I remembered my students don’t let us say goodbye, just see you later, because it isn’t final.” -Ashley
Ashley presenting on her expert topic.
“I don’t believe in goodbyes!” -Shelley
“Thank you for providing me with one of the most incredible days of my life. The location, people, and experiences were incredible.” -Michael
“Thank you Berg-en-Dal for starting this journey with joy, amazement, and awe!” -Flavia
“ I would not like to move there, but I would come again with a bigger family. I think it was nice.” -Noma
Noma and Flavia as they packed up and said goodbye to their Berg-en-Dal home.
“Berg-en-Dal, you did not disappoint. Thank you for rejuvenating my soul and bringing me some amazing memories. The heartbeat of the bush is within me now and will keep calling me back to you.” -Amy
“Goodbye to the red-eyed dove that wished me a good morning and the fiery-necked nightjar that bade me good night. Goodbye to the sounds of Berg-en-Dal, until we meet again.” -Andrew
“Waking with the sun and walking with curiosity – watching for birds, investigating seeds and tracks, and navigating past docile bushbuck – deepened my connection and appreciation to this space, even as we said our goodbyes.” -Emma
The whole group on our journey from Berg-en-Dal to Skukuza Rest Camp, our next stop in Kruger National Park.
“Do you have time to….just be alive on this fresh morning in this broken world?” Mary Oliver
For the lioness and her cub
For the giraffe and her baby
For the elephant chasing his mama’s tail
To watch the sunrise over Southern Africa?
This morning, our driver Peter warned us that we may not see what we wanted. We would only see what the bush would give us. And this morning, the bush was incredibly generous.
There were so many moments on our first game drive that stole our breaths from our lungs. We held on to each other, eyes big, looking at each other. Asking “is this real?” It was real. This morning we entered their territory. We breathed their air. You could feel the rumble of the mama lion in your chest as she chided her too playful cub.
Many of us were shocked to find that we weren’t incredibly disgusted to watch a pack of wild dogs consume an impala in under 5 minutes.
African Wild Dogs (or Painted Wolves as they’re becoming known) eating an impala carcass.
We squealed as an elephant family walked toward us, the tiniest baby chasing mama’s tail, and catching it. Some of us even got chastised for leaning too far outside the vehicle (even teachers forget the rules, sometimes).
A group of female elephants and their young paraded by our vehicle.
Several giraffes surprised us, seemingly out of nowhere, their majesty overtaking us. We celebrated small rhino families, that are slowly taking what has been stolen from them.
We were so alive this morning. Together, in one place, in a broken world. Taking time to just be…16 strangers holding hands and sharing a once in a lifetime experience. Falling in love with South Africa and Kruger.
Ready for our game drives!
Jane Goodall said “there is a timeless quality to the African wilderness, a sense of peace and belonging that I haven’t found anywhere else in the world.”
It was peaceful to let the world steal our breath in a good way, for a moment. When was the last time you stopped and watched and waited and let life tell you what you needed? When you took only what was given and didn’t ask for more or what was next?
Take a chance and be open. You may find exactly you need, even if you thought it wasn’t what you wanted.
Sunset over the southern part of Kruger National Park.
“You don’t just visit South Africa. You fall into it heart first—so deep and forever I changed.” -unknown
And the adventure begins. After a 15 hour flight and a few hours of sleep we headed off for Kruger National Park. The drive started with a very flat, dry landscape and turned into mountains and a fascinating drive through the park. We left the city for the country.
An important thing to practice before heading into Kruger National Park? Using binoculars!
–
It happened before I even made it through the gates.
We stopped on the bridge just outside Kruger National Park, expecting a quick glance, maybe a photo. What I didn’t expect was to feel something crack wide open in me.
The view on one side of the bridge outside Kruger National Park.
Below the bridge, the river wound its way through the dry landscape—wide, slow, and shimmering under the African sun. It was peaceful, but alive. And there, along the shoreline, they appeared—hippos, lounging together in the shallow water and stretched out across the muddy riverbank.
Their huge, rounded forms looked like ancient sculptures, but it was their pink bellies that stopped me. Soft, exposed, glowing faintly in the light—they added this surprising sweetness. They looked oddly content, piled close together in the warm sun completely unbothered by the world. There was something strangely intimate about it.
And then I said it, almost laughing: “Hippopotamus.”
Not like I’d said it before. This time it came out in awe. Like the word itself was part of the magic.
Just beyond them, impala moved gently through the grass—delicate and alert, catching the sun on their sleek coats. Nearby, crocodiles lay motionless, also sunning themselves, their armored backs blending into the riverbank. At first I didn’t even notice them—until I did, and then I couldn’t not see them. They were eerie and fascinating, ancient-looking and incredibly still. The kind of stillness that makes you feel the power just beneath the surface.
Then, as if to balance all that grounded stillness, a fish eagle soared overhead—its wings wide and commanding. In the shallows below, a grey heron waded slowly and purposefully through the water, all grace and patience, waiting for the perfect moment to strike.
And all of this—all of it—was just from the bridge.
We hadn’t even entered Kruger, and yet I already felt undone. Not in a dramatic, life-flashing-before-my-eyes kind of way. It was gentler than that. More like something inside me recognized this place. Like my heart had been waiting for it.
I didn’t want to move. I didn’t want to speak. I just stood there, overwhelmed with gratitude—not just for what I was seeing, but for the fact that I got to be there at all. That, for one fleeting moment, I was a witness to this wild, untouched beauty.
That bridge wasn’t just a crossing point. It was a beginning.
Because you don’t just visit South Africa.
You fall into it—heart first. So deep and so suddenly, you don’t even realize it’s happening until you’ve already changed. Forever, and beautifully, unknown.
An unexpectedly close encounter with an African Elephant in Kruger National Park.
